Great Hair At Any Age

Posted: Friday 16 July 2010 11:06am

It’s not just your skin that you need to look out for with age – it experiences change at the hands of time too.  Here’s how to keep it looking its best, always.

PROBLEM: HAIR LOSS OR THINNING

Cause: “As we age, the circulation of the blood that feeds the hair follicle slows down,” explains Emiliano Vitale from E Salon in Wahroonga, Sydney.

“This means less efficient absorption of the vitamins and minerals that the hair needs to stay strong. The hair follicle is not being fed and the hair is not getting enough nutrients.”

Hormones come into play too, adds Troy Thompson of Troy Thompson Hairdressing in Rose Bay, Sydney. “The decreases in oestrogen levels during menopausal years can cause hair follicles to shrink and the hair shafts to become thinner.”

Prevention/Solution: Diet, exercise, certain vitamins and nutritional supplements can delay or reverse some of the changes in your hair. “All of these will improve circulation and blood flow and improve the nutrition of the hair and scalp,” says Emiliano.

Introduce techniques to reduce stress levels. “Stress depletes B group vitamins, which are essential to healthy, full hair,” adds Emiliano. “It also causes the scalp to tighten, therefore further restricting blood flow.”

Try yoga, mediation, regular scalp massage and deep breathing exercises.  Ask your doctor about newer and safer hormone therapies, which may help to improve the condition of your hair.

Keeping haircuts solid and shorter is the common consensus.

“It gives an illusion of fullness and keeps it altogether healthier,” explains Emiliano. “Don’t layer it as it simply thins hair out more.”

Keep your styling as low-maintenance as possible.

“Over styling with heated appliances such as curling wands or straightening irons can add unnecessary stress,” comments Anthony Nader, from Raw Hair in Sydney.

“Avoid products that have been formulated with a high percentage of alcohol or synthetic ingredients, or that may require a lot of brushing out.

“Always use a leave-in conditioner that has both UV and heat protection to guard against both the sun’s harmful rays and the heat from your hairdryer. Try to extend the life of your blow-dry for an extra day or two, by using a dry shampoo. This will also make your hair feel and look fuller.”

Try:

* Joico K-Pack Sun Therapy, $26.95
* Klorane Extra Gentle Dry Shampoo, $16.95

If you want to use volumisers, choose a light mousse that won’t leave hair gluggy. “Find one that gives strength without tackiness,” says Emiliano.

As for post-styling, ditch harsh hairsprays and opt for a softening, strength-building oil. “The new oils on the market will coat and seal the cuticle, rebuild your hair’s elasticity and give it plenty of shine and bounce,” explains Emiliano.

Try:
* L’Oreal Professionnel Serie Expert Expansion, $35
* Argan Oil, $34.95

In terms of care, always use a UV leave-in protector as above, and quality shampoo and conditioner, that will help nourish and revitalise your hair.

Try:
*   Joico Daily Care Treatment Shampoo and Moisturizer, $24.95 each
* Kerastase Age Premium Bain Substantif, $35, and Pasque Substantif, $56
* Sebastian Professional Volupt Shampoo, $32, Volupt Conditioner, $34.

Finally, regular intensive treatments will improve the health and vitality of your hair. Try Kerastase Age Premium Re-Substance In-Salon Ritual, priced from $25. It’s specifically designed to infuse mature or fine hair with calcium and vitamin F, thereby leaving it looking thicker and revitalised.

Hint: Your hair can suffer sun damage every bit as much as your skin. If you are spending a lot of time outdoors, swimming, or about to take a tropical vacation, always use a solar-care shampoo and conditioner.  Wear a hat outdoors wherever possibile – your scalp can get sunburned too.
Try:
* Wella Biotouch Sun Hair and Body Shampoo and Sun Mask, $20.95 each

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GOING GREY

Cause: “Grey hair is directly related to the body’s melanocytes,” explains Emiliano. “These are the cells that create the colour pigment in both the hair and the skin. Blondes have less melanocytes, whereas dark haired people have more. In all cases, as we grow older, the production of melanocytes slows and in some cases ceases altogether.”

Sudden trauma or stress can also be a cause. “During times of stress, our bodies tighten up and stop feeding the hair. This can sometimes cause a shock of grey throughout the hair. Occasionally, stress-related grey hair can return to normal, but this is not common.”

Prevention/Solution:

“At the moment, there seems to be a move towards women embracing their grey locks,” says Emiliano.

Be aware though, that grey hair is porous, prone to yellowing and has a naturally coarser texture, so requires maintenence. You will need regular salon treatments, backed up with at-home care to ensure it remains polished and healthy.

“In the salon, ask for a semi-permanent silver gloss that will tone and clean,” suggests Emiliano. “It maintains grey, counteracts any yellowing or brassiness and leaves hair looking shiny, healthy and amazing. It will also soften the coarseness of the hair.”

At home, reach for quality shampoo and conditioner that will restore your hair’s suppleness. It’s also wise to invest in a silver toning shampoo, which will absorb any yellowing from pollution or environmental aggressors.

Try:
* Kerastase Resistance Bain Age Recharge, $34, and Resistance Age Recharge Pasque, $55.
* L’Oreal Professionel Serie Expert Silver Shampoo, $25

Should you wish to colour it, keep it as close to your own pre-grey colour as possibile.

“Ask for natural looking highlights and colours that will complement your skin tone,” advises Anthony. “Always avoid one single block of colour, as you will get a solid looking silver regrowth every few weeks. You will also need to visit the salon more frequently.”

Grey hair also requires special care as the weather becomes warmer. “It needs plenty of moisture,” stress Emiliano. “Whenever your hair has had sun exposure, it’s important to shampoo lightly and follow with a deeply hydrating mask. Always apply a leave-in moisturiser before styling.”

Try:
* Goldwell Kerasilk Ultra Rich Care Shampoo and Treatment, $20.95 each.

BRITTLENESS AND FRAGILE HAIR

Cause: Brittle, fragile hair can often come about due to natural dehydration of the hair, or from chemical processing and over styling, both of which can be an issue at any age. Similarly, lack of nutrients to the scalp and hair follicle can come into play.

Prevention/Solution: Again, check your diet and lifestyle. Employ tactics to improve circulation, such as cardiovascular exercise and massage and breathing techniques.

“You are really restricted to what you can do with brittle,” says Emiliano. “As we age, we can often intensify the problem too. Because brittle hair often is quite lifeless and flat, there is a tendency to really over style it. This just exacerbates the problem.”

The key is to keep hair on the shorter side and adopt as much of a natural look as is possible.

“Speak to your hairdresser and work out a style that suits your face and the texture and condition of your hair. You really need to look for strengthening products too, particularly when it begins to warm up.”

In salon, avoid colour techniques such as bleaching or highlighting, instead using colour glosses that will infuse hair with shine instead.

Look for a rebuilding and strengthening treatment, such as Keratin Complex, from $300 to $500 depending on the salon and the length of your hair (call 1800 251 215 for details). It uses a hot iron to infuse pure keratin into the hair shaft thereby strengthening and building volume. Hair left smooth, shiny and more manageable.

Shampoo less frequently, and increase hydration and moisture treatments. Remember that hair is comprised of keratin, which is one of the proteins naturally depleted with age, so turn to keratin care too.

Try:
* Brazilian Tech Keratin Smoothing Shampoo, Conditioner and Treatment, $19.95 each

Be aware that when summer approaches, brittle hair can be vulnerable. It requires moisture and protection, but you need to be careful not to overload it. “There is a lot of humidity in the air,” says Emiliano, “so over moisturising can make it heavy and cause it to stick to the head. A once-a-week moisture treatment and a light, daily leave-in conditioner spray should suffice.”

Try:
* Paul Mitchell Instant Daily Moisture Shampoo, $19.95
* Paul Mitchell Instant Moisture Daily Treatment, $23.90
* Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Moisture Mist, $18.95

by Shonagh Walker

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