Peel Away The Years

Posted: Friday 23 July 2010 11:29am

Whether your concern is lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, enlarged pores, congestion and blemishes  or a generally tired, dull complexion, there are some simple skin-refining solutions that can offer fast relief.

From at-home care, to the beauty therapist or the dermatologist, you can restore glowing, radiant, younger-looking skin with minimum time and expense.

AT HOME

Correct cleansing and exfoliation is first your line of defence for any skin issue. Both help to refresh and rejuvenate your skin and pave the way for better absorption of treatment serums and creams. Choose formulas with glycolic acids, which will gently dissolve the bonds that hold together dead cells on the surface of the skin. Cleanse twice daily (morning and night) and exfoliate once or twice weekly.

Try:
•    Priori Forte Facial Cleanser, $100
•    MD Formulations Face and Body Scrub, $95ß
•    Dermalogica Daily Resurfacer, $118

Boost your skin care with a serum. Choose one that is specifically designed to refine and rejuvenate skin, and that will minimise congestion and fatigue.

Try:
•    Alpha H Alpha A&E Serum, $102
•    MD Formulations Continuous Renewal Serum Sensitive Skin, $115
•    La Prairie White Caviar Illuminating Serum, $610
•    SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator, $110.65

CONSIDER A PEEL

“Peels offer great benefit for a variety of conditions,” explains Dr Jo-Ann See from Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs Dermatology. “They can help clear acne, reverse photo ageing, soften lines and improve both the appearance and feel of the skin.”

Today, peel formulations range from herbal, botanical, vitamin and acid-based, either glycolic, salicylic or lactic. At-home peels are buffered to activate only to certain strengths and times, as are peels performed in a salon, which tend to be slightly stronger than self-administered peels.

Medical strength peels are the strongest and most effective. They generally require down-time, can be uncomfortable and must be administered by a dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon or cosmetic nurse, who will closely monitor activating time and pre-and post-peel care.

Note: Even mild strength home peels can cause sun-sensitivity. “You’re exposing new skin,” says Dr See. “You need to protect it. Stay out of the sun immediately after your peel, and always apply sun block the next day before venturing outside.”

Depending on strength you require, you can begin your peel program at-home. Simply apply according to the instructions that come with the formula.

“We then recommend as people begin to see benefits, they take it up a level, going to a salon peel and then even a medical strength peel,” says Dr See.

At Home Peels:

•    Clinique Turnaround Radiance Peel Once-a-Week System, $110. A two-phase glycolic peel that leaves skin smoother, more even-toned and radiant.
•    La Prairie Cellular 3 Minute Peel, $300. This AHA/BHA peel works in three minutes to refresh the skin, rejuvenate, rehydrate and protect.

In Salon Peels:

•   The Peptide Peel, between $125 and $150
This uses glycolic and lactic acids, peptides and hyaluronic acids to stimulate collagen production within deeper layers of the skin. It targets sun damage, fine lines, and wrinkles, dry and dehydrated skin and some sensitive skin conditions. It is not painful, and a facial can be performed at the same time. There is no shedding; rather, the AHAs allow the peptides to work within the dermis. Within twenty-four hours skin appears brighter, smoother and more toned. A series of six treatments once every two weeks is recommended for best results, with maintenance programs recommended every six months. Call: 1300 799 709.

•   The Stem Cell Peel, from $150
A resurfacing treatment that address ageing and acne, this relies on botanically derived stem cells (from lilac leaves) together with a glycolic acid resurfacer and anti-inflammatory, soothing plant extracts to help trigger human stem cell activity and regeneration, improve the tone and texture of the skin and soften the signs of ageing. There may be mild shedding, but this is rare. The peel is left on between five to 10 minutes, depending on the skin issues and the client can return to work immediately afterwards. Results are evident after one peel, in that radiance is restored, sallowness minimised and skin tone improved, but for best results, a series of six treatments over six weeks is suggested. Call: 1300 799 709.

•   The Herbal Aktiv Peel, $699 (price includes three at-home skin maintenance products and a post-treatment).
This peel relies on a solution of natural stimulants, exfoliants and regenerating and soothing herbs, which is massaged into the skin to trigger a peeling, resurfacing effect. The downtime of the peel is five days, with a reddening and tightening of the skin, similar to sunburn, experienced up until Day 3, when shedding occurs.  On Day Five, a follow up facial removes any traces of flaking skin and a newer, fresher skin is revealed. Call: 03 9645 0200.

Medical Peels

•   Priori Forte Lactic Acid Chemical Peel, $160
A medical strength peel that uses seventy-five per cent lactic acid, this must only be performed by a paramedically trained beauty therapist, clinical nurse or cosmetic physician. It offers advanced exfoliation, normalising skin renewal rates, hydrating skin from within and decreasing signs of ageing. There is some mild tingling, but there is no shedding or downtime. Lines and wrinkles appear softened and skin becomes more radiant and firmer. Results will last and improve with home use of the prescribed Priori Forte skin care range. A course of weekly peels over four weeks will maximise results. Call: 1800 808 993

•    Vitamin A Peel, approximately $250 per peel, not including pre and post skin care.
This medium-depth peel is associated with minimal downtime, as skin is prepped for two weeks prior to treatment with vitamin A skin care, so it becomes accustomed to topical vitamin A. On treatment day a combination of high strength Vitamin A and lactic acid is applied to skin from between three to twenty minutes. “Skin already has receptors for vitamin A, so the peeling on medium depth level happens immediately,” says Lisa Sullivan-Smith from The Clinic in Bondi Junction, Sydney. “Most people experience light shedding and dry skin, which clears up within a week to reveal rejuvenated, retexturised skin with softened lines, wrinkles and pigmentation.” Three peels over three weeks are advised for best results. Assuming a healthy lifestyle is followed, home care vitamin A is used and clients stay out of the sun, results should remain fresh for up to six months. For longer-lasting results, one maintenance peel every six months is recommended.  Call: 02 9386 1533

OTHER SKIN-REFINING OPTIONS

While peels offer stellar results in terms of skin refining, rejuvenation and restoration, there are other options available.

-   Proteolytic Enzyme Treatment, from $100
This facial uses a resurfacing formula made up of paw paw and a proteolytic enzyme. “The enzyme recognises dead skin cells from healthy tissue and goes across the surface of the skin like a little Pacman, very gently removing any dead keratinised layer and leaving a fresh healthy skin,” explains cosmedic nurse Claire O’Mara, from All Saints Cosmedical Clinic in Darlinghurst, Sydney. “It is great to use a few days after resurfacing lasers and chemical peels ads it will cut down shedding time and amplify the benefits. It takes the skin off gently and immediately.” It can also be performed as a singular procedure too, to offer smoother, fresher more refined skin. Call: 02 9357 7557

-    Microhydrabrasion, $129
Similar to microdermabrasion, this procedure uses a diamond tipped wand, together with aloe and water to remove the outer dead layers of the skin that cause dullness, and a poor, rough texture. “The tip of the wand is moved over the skin to deeply exfoliate and clean out the pores, while the aloe and the water soothe and cool,” says Will Fennel from Will and Peta salon in Bondi Junction, Sydney. “The cooling action allows for a deeper dermabrasion, which facilitates better absorption of treatments creams, promotes collagen production and cell renewal and creates brightening of a skin. There is no downtime – it’s perfect to have the day before a big event.”
One treatment will provide immediate results, but for maximum benefit, six treatments over six weeks is advised. Call: 02 9388 0221.

-     Omnilux Light Therapy, approximately $900 for ten treatments
Coloured LED wavelengths of light are directed on to the face to rejuvenate the complexion. The LED light has the ability to penetrate the epidermis, improve hydration and plump the skin. It is positioned very close to the face. Waves of either red (photo-rejuvenation) or blue light (to treat acne), or a combination of both depending on the person’s need, are directed on to the skin for twenty minutes each session, to heal and rebuild a healthier complexion. Expect improved hydration and clearing of acne after a series of eight to ten treatments. There is no downtime. As long as good skin care and lifestyle habits are maintained, results should be long lasting, with maintenance treatments every six months recommended.
Call: 1800 808 993

Regenerative Medicine with Platelet-rich Plasma, upwards from $500, depending on the area you’re having treated.
This is a new medical face and neck rejuvenation procedure whereby blood is taken from the patient and the platelet-rich plasma is extracted from the blood. The plasma is mixed with calcium-chloride and injected into the area being treated. The platelets are thought stimulate growth factors in the skin, which triggers cell renewal and creates restructuring of the skin. As this procedure is so new, its efficacy and the duration of results is yet undetermined. Call: 1300 668 573

Thermage, upwards of $3000 for face and neck.
Hailing results that are the next-best-thing to surgery, Thermage uses radio-frequency waves, delivered deep into the dermal layer, to remodel collagen and create a firmer, fresher skin. A probe with a cool mist tip is rolled over the skin, and the heat penetrates as the cool tip cools the surface. “This procedure is great for women aged between 45 and 60, or anyone seeking a fresher appearance,” says the Clinic’s Lisa Sullivan-Smith. Skin appears fresher, firmer and rejuvenated after just one treatment, but results will be most improved after six months, once new collagen has been laid down. There is no downtime and only slight reddening of the skin following the procedure, however there is pain associated, for which mild oral sedation can be administered. If the patient lives a healthy, well-balanced lifestyle and stays out of the sun, results can last up to two years. Call: 02 9386 1533

-    Fraxel: Dual Laser, upwards of $1500 for a full face.
A new generation of Fraxel laser, uses a different wavelength of ablative laser to treat acne scarring, pigmentation, blemishes, crow’s feet and wrinkles and smoker’s lines. “The difference between this and other ablative lasers is that the epidermis is kept in tact,” explains Lisa Sullivan-Smith. “It can penetrate deeper than other lasers, with the added bonus of minimal downtime – four to seven days, with peeling, and patients can return to work within a week.”
The laser is moved over the entire face, or the area being treated, to destroy the offending cells without damaging surrounding cells. “One session will make skin appear more clarified if sun damage is superficial mild to moderate, while more severe sun damage may require two session, one month apart.”

Acne scarring and pigmentation is diminished, skin is left smooth and even textured, lines are smoothed and wrinkles plumped out. Results at this stage are thought to be permanent however maintenance treatments might be required after three years, as the skin undergoes a natural and ongoing ageing process.
-    Call: 02 9386 1533

MAKE UP
Look for pore refining primers and skin-smoothing foundation that will nurture the skin, without congestion. Foundation should also offer some kind of sun block. Ensure brushes are of good quality, and kept scrupulously clean.

Try:
-    Avon MagiX Face Perfector, $39.99
-    Clarins Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch, $42
-    Bare Minerals Matte Foundation, $79
-    Elizabeth Arden Pure Finish Mineral Powder Foundation, $6

by Shonagh Walker

Comments (0) Print Send to friend Share or bookmark this page